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Cauliflower Bisque

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Sue Kleber

My husband very graciously volunteered to help write my column this month.
HE SAID:
I don’t eat out all that often. I mean, why would I? I’m married to a woman who will gladly drive to San Jose to pluck 2 live lobsters out of a tank at a Vietnamese market or drive to Moss landing to meet the crabbers so that I can eat the finest, freshest seafood in the world. Sometimes, however, circumstances are such that you do end up in a spot where you just want to eat out.

We live in the middle of some of the best dining in the world. Go to the Bay area and you have your choice of any kind of cuisine you want, all world class. But don’t dismay, you don’t have to drive two hours, there is some pretty good dining in our neck of the woods. There are all kinds of good eats up and down our valley, but if you don’t mind driving a few minutes there are some real gems close by.

First of all for good Italian comfort food, Gino’s in Salinas is about as good as it gets. They make you feel as welcome as family, and boy do they have good food. There is all manner of pasta, salads and sides, and of course their Artichoke soup is the stuff of legend. You won’t walk out of there feeling like something is lacking.

These days, however for fine dining to paraphrase Horace Greeley “Go south young man, go south.” Paso Robles is turning into a dining destination town with the likes of Bistro Laurent, Buona Tavola and all kinds of sushi bars, Thai and Mexican restaurants. There is one place that in my opinion stands out from the pack.

We were in Paso a couple of years ago with our friends Chris and Kathy Davis at an Olive Oil festival on the square when Chris suggested we try a new place for lunch called Artisan on 14th Street. I’ve been hooked on it ever since.

The Kobayashi family has designed a beautiful bistro that has an open kitchen, which I feel is fun, and serves up some of the best food this side of San Francisco and beyond. I always thought the best calamari in the world was at Sam’s or Tadich in S.F. I was wrong. I sampled some of Sue’s calamari when we ate there last week, and it was in a light batter and heavenly. I had a seafood stew with clams, mussels, pasta and the most delicious day boat scallops I’ve ever eaten (outside of my wife’s, of course. Hey, I ain’t stupid). Son Russell had the beef short ribs, which, by the time I got around to want to sample, he had inhaled, but pronounced them superb. The dessert menu is gorgeous and delicious. We’ve eaten there a number of times and the menu changes quite often, but don’t worry it is always excellent. Prices are moderate, and reservations are recommended during the week and necessary on the weekends. Check out their website www.artisanpasorobles.com.

I have to go now, gotta see what’s for dinner.
SHE SAID:
When we were last at Artisan, the soup of the day was cauliflower bisque. Which sounded good but which I didn’t have room to try. I try to cook as seasonally as possible and the produce stand had the most beautiful cauliflower so cauliflower bisque it is.

Cauliflower Bisque
4 TB butter
1 TB olive oil
1 very large leek, white and light green part only, diced ( about 3 1/2 cups)
2/3 cup diced shallot
1 cup diced celery
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1 clove garlic, minced
1/3 cup flour
1 tsp thyme
1/2 tsp marjoram
1/2 tsp Old Bay seasoning
1/4 tsp white pepper
1 tsp kosher salt
32 oz box chicken broth
2 cups milk
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated
chives for garnish

Heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat and add the leek, shallot and celery and 1/2 tsp salt. Turn the heat to medium low and slowly sweat the vegetables, being careful not to let them brown. Add the garlic, flour and seasonings and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the broth and milk and stir to smooth. Add the Parmesan cheese to taste. Serve garnished with chive sprigs.